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Moved the third time. Search engines stupidly issue the most difficult solution – sawing and cooking the subframe. It turns out that the soured bolt of the front silent block is a problem of the 21st century. Horizontal did not work.

Restoration of car subframe thread without registration and welding

Carried until the evening, but never unscrewed. I ordered a repair kit for M12x1.25 Total minus 3 days for 1 bolt. A week of waiting and a new bummer – the tail brought 12.5mm, and the cartridge on the Shurik and drill 0..10mm. Less one more week. I installed a new lever, assembled the suspension without tightening the horizontal bolt. I counted to 10 and went home to smoke manuals.
The weather was warm, nothing foreshadowed trouble. The vertical bolt loosened with a meter pipe. I decided to write about replacing the lower suspension arm. I twist and turn, but the bolt does not come out. There is an easier way out, and the story is about it… I only thought of cutting out the remnants of the bushing of the silent block. Here is the twist. Zero result. I ordered a cartridge with adapters, it’s cheaper. The lever assembly was bought in advance. After analyzing the pictures of both stretchers, I decided to try the threaded insert – cut and cook, in Uncle Vasya’s garage, I always have time. I didn’t want to buy a new drill. Dremel sawed off the lever and part of the bushing. The bolt is soured in the bushing of the silent block. I put the car on wheels and checked the tire pressure. Began to tighten with a force of 100 Nm and the bolt turned. Take only a set – a drill and a tap for Heli-Coil of a non-standard size and you will not find such in retail. The scale of the problem became clear – corrosion along the entire length. The next day I burned out the rubber and tried to warm the bushing. I work further, I hear a crack – the frame is an arc in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bolt head. He began to heat the nut through the hole in the subframe.

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